An absolute highlight of the Marker Duke PT 11 is the innovative Ride & Hike toe. For walking mode the upper part is simply unlocked and tilted forward, uncovering the pin binding. To save swing weight the upper jaw part can be taken off and stored in a backpack. The multi functional Lock & Walk unit automatically locks the brakes and provides a 10° climbing aid.
For downhill mode the front jaw section is clicked back onto the base plate, quadruple secured by the Auto Quad Lock technology. Now the toe piece works just like an alpine toe with all of its advantages! The heel is the latest generation of Inter Pivot heels. The low height of 24 mm allows for direct power transmission and fast edge changes. Thanks to Multinorm all Duke PT are compatible to alpine, touring and GripWalk boots.
Features of Marker Duke PT 11 Bindings
Ability Advanced, Expert
AFD Gliding Plate Stainless steel
Age Adult
Best For Freeride
Bindings Boot Sole Range 240 mm - 380 mm
Brake Width 100
Category Touring, Freeride
Collection Royal Family, Duke PT
Din/ISO Range DIN 3.0 - 11.0
Gender Men's, Women's, Unisex
Heel Adjustment Range 60
Recom. Skier's Weight 30 - 110 kg
Boot Type Alpine, GripWalk
Stand Height W/O Ski 24
Toe System Ride & Hike
Walking Modes 0¡;10¡
Weight - Bindings 1150 / 850g
Technology
LOCK & WALK BRAKE
The multi functional Lock & Walk unit automatically locks the brakes and provides a 10° climbing aid. For downhill mode the front jaw section is clicked back onto the base plate, quadruple secured by the Auto Quad Lock technology. Now the toe piece works just like an alpine toe with all of its advantages!
HOLLOW LINKAGE 2 HEEL
Latest generation of the Hollow Linkage Heel. Improved step-in performance: 30 % less step-in force and easier entry. Also compatible with GripWalk boots
RIDE & HIKE TOE
Great Royal Family downhill performance and release function combined with pin-technology for strong uphill performance. For walking mode the upper part is simply unlocked and tilted forward, uncovering the pin binding. Thanks to this convertible toe 300g per foot can be saved for the ascent.
MULTINORME (Sole.ID)
> Height-adjustable gliding plate to be compatible with all boot soles on the market
> Compatible with: Alpine (ISO 5355 A), Touring (ISO 9523) and GripWalk (ISO 23223 A) soles
> Easy to adjust: Pozi screw at the front to adjust height of gliding plate
GRIPWALK
The sole-binding system for better walking comfort and top skiing performance. GripWalk contains of a new co-polymer sole with rocker profile. The convex shape and ribbed tread of the rubber add a lot of walking comfort and provide a much better grip. Still, integrated pads made of stiff and rigid materials, enable great power transmission and more precise release function of the binding. GripWalk soles are the perfect tuning parts designed for selected premium ski boots and bindings.
GLIDING AFD
All MARKER bindings are equipped with a moveable AFD (anti friction device) leading to a highly precise release almost entirely unhindered by dirt, snow and ice! Individual adjustment of the AFD to the area of application ensures perfect functionality - from racing, for children’s bindings or on ski tours.
ANTI ICE RAIL
Use the metal rail to scratch off ice and snow below your boot sole.
AUTO QUAD LOCK
Toe part locks itself at 4 different points automatically when stepping into the binding.
Buying The Correct Ski Binding Brake Width
It should be simple, ski bindings come with different brake width options, measured in MM, and you simply select the brake width to match your skis and everything works. Or does it?!
Where the ski brake sits on the ski, is not in the centre of the skis. However, the measurement manufacturers give you and sometimes even put in the ski name – The ski waist width, or width underfoot, is at the mounting centre line of the skis, and with some brands varies slightly depending on the length of the skis. So when we determine the correct ski brake binding width we need to consider this and add a few mm to be safe, without going too wide so that they stick out. But it is ALWAYS better to be too wide than too narrow, otherwise your brakes will not drop down when you clip out – or fall out – of your bindings and shoot down the mountain, which is dangerous for others and could loose you a ski!
Also, different ski binding brands measure their brakes differently. Some measure the inside to inside distance when the boot is in the binding (and try measuring that easily!!) some centre to centre, and some outside to outside. Pretty frustrating isn’t it!
If you visit forums, all you will hear is “don’t worry bend your brakes out” but this is NOT a good idea and should be a last resort not a standard practice. When you bend your brakes out or in you effectively weaken them a little. Further, when you bend them out, they move in an arc up to the skis and can end up clearing the ski sides but out of position making them easier to catch leading to them failing to work correctly. We have seen brakes bent on the arms, but the mechanism that keeps them in place is damaged through twisting making the brakes dangerous. So ALWAYS try to use the correct width brake, even if it means spending a few pounds on a different set of brakes – the safety risk just isn’t really worth it.
How to measure which brakes to use
STEP 1: Identify the width of your skis “underfoot” which is the middle measurement of the geometry information normally printed on at least one ski, or shown on the product pages website. So for example 122-88-110 is telling you the tip, waist, and tail widths in MM. so this ski would be 88mm under the foot at the mounting centreline of the ski.
STEP 2: Add 2-5mm to give you the minimum brake width you should opt for. So in this example, we would go for a 90mm to 95mm brake. Marker brakes are 90mm, Look brakes offer 95mm, and other manufacturers will do there own thing but have a brake a few mm wider than what you know you need. Do NOT go for anything narrower however good a deal it is, and even going the same width can be tricker as the brake may stick on the sides of the skis and not fully drop down to act as a brake.
What happens if I go too WIDE with my brake width
We actually prefer to be too wide rather than too narrow when it comes to ski binding brakes, as the brake will not get jammed on the side walls of the skis. However, if you go far too wide, the skis when clicked together by the brakes will scissor around a lot which can make handling tricky, and also may stick out beyond the ski width enough for them to drag on the snow when carving hard on the mountain. So for us, in our example, if you have an 88mm ski waist and put a 100mm brake on the skis, that will be OK, but if you went for a 110mm or wider, you would be going too wide in our opinion.
Still Need Help?
Don’t worry if you still don’t know which brake to go for. Just get in touch with us with your ski details and we can advise you. Also, when we sell skis with bindings here, we will always check what the customer has ordered, and if the brake width selected is suitable we will change this before any mounting takes place to ensure your skis brakes function correctly and remain safe on the mountain.